2016 Champagne Larmandier-Bernier, Terre de Vertus, Blanc de Blancs, 1erCru, Non DoséCreamy, tangy, coddled yogurt richness. Dense and weighty, with layers and layers of richness: brled cream and cobnuts, honey and baked feta in pastry. Fascinating sprinkle of dried oregano grace notes. A kaleidoscope of flavour and texture tucked within a very firm, square frame. Linear, smoky end. Serious and magnificent. Jancis Robinson