Hreggnasi, SnæfellsnesGetting to Hreggnasi means picking your way across a lava field that wants to turn your ankle every third step. The basalt is sharp and uneven, covered in patches of moss that look solid but aren't always. I'd been out on the Snfellsnes Peninsula since late afternoon, waiting for the sky to do something worth the drive, and it finally obliged at civil twilight. The peak itself is a modest volcanic remnant, dark rock rising from that flat, fractured