Svartifoss, IcelandThe walk up to Svartifoss from Skaftafell is deceptively steep. By the time you reach the viewing point, you're warm enough that the spray coming off the falls is actually welcome. For about thirty seconds, anyway. Those basalt columns are extraordinary. They hang above the waterfall like a pipe organ, dark and dripping, each one fractured along clean hexagonal lines. The fallen fragments at the base have piled up over centuries, jagged and moss