Toe Head, Co. CorkToe Head is one of those West Cork headlands you drive past a hundred times without stopping. I nearly did the same this evening. But the cloud was moving fast and high, and the light on the water had that residual glow you only get when the sun drops below a gap in the overcast. Worth pulling over for. The rock shelves along this shore are dark and heavily layered, almost like pages of a book forced upward. I got down low among them. The sea was so